PORTSMOUTH -- Those searching for that perfect piece of jewelry might find it at Summerwind Jewelers.

And if it can't be found, it can be made.

While the Internet gives customers unprecedented knowledge of industry trends and choices, computer-aided design programs enable jewelers to turn a customer's dream into a 3-D model that can be cast with mathematical precision.

Summerwind is one of the few places on the Seacoast to augment its inventory with these high-tech tools. Owner Mel Reisz says custom work now accounts for nearly a third of his business.

Reisz's shop was in Commercial Alley until 1996 when he purchased a four-story building two blocks and a world away on Market Street.

That was his first great move, he told Talking Shop.

"Once you can get people to know you're there, it's OK, but it takes a long time," said Reisz of his Commercial Alley days. "It worked for me, obviously, or I wouldn't have stayed 17 years, but it's definitely better out here."

Reisz's second great move was investing in Digital Goldsmith and Matrix, programs that turn ideas into gold -- or silver, whatever customers want.

The system cost Reisz much more than two months salary, but he says it's worth it. "It's a wonderful way to work with customers; we do better quality work, manage expectations and virtually eliminate mistakes," Reisz said.

Talking Shop recently sat down with Reisz to talk about how the jewelry industry has changed since he set up shop 28 years ago.

Talking Shop: Please tell us about your business.

Mel Reisz: One of the things that has made us successful is that we are constantly adding services and evolving. We offer what most people expect to find in jewelry stores: diamond engagement rings, wedding bands, etc. But we also represent a vast number of goldsmiths and jewelry designers; we carry Tahitian pearls, Japanese saltwater pearls, watches, we offer engravings and a lot of repair work that most stores aren't equipped to do.

I think what separates us from most stores is our ability to sit down with a customer and design it with them, and produce it for them using leading-edge technology. Tourists are invariably surprised with the size of our inventory, which they say is very different from what they see in mall stores and not what they see in local stores.

TS: What percentage of your sales comes from custom pieces?

MR: The jewelry that we buy from other designers and broker represents about 65 percent of our business; 35 percent of our business is repair and custom work. Overall, about 30 percent of our business comes from wedding bands and engagement rings.

round diamonds

TS: What's been the biggest change among jewelry customers since you opened your store?

MR: Consumers are much more educated about diamond quality. It used to be when a guy would buy an engagement ring, he was looking for something that looked good to his eye and was bright. These days, people know that little differences in round diamonds mean major differences in price, and that the cut and color are very important. Most of the round  diamonds we sell come with certificates from independent grading groups like the Gemological Institute of America -- that is very different from 28 years ago.

Customers are now also aware of a far greater variety of jewelry. Years ago, to most people, a pearl was something round and white. Tahitian pearls are multicolored -- they can be black, gray, blue, green, there's very high luster, and the deep, rich gem tones is something people didn't know about then.

TS: Are prospective grooms willing to spend more today for an engagement ring?

MR: Amazingly enough -- and I'm a little surprised sometimes, but a lot of people come in with a budget, and their budget is significantly higher than it was even five years ago. They want to buy quality. A lot of people are interested in platinum. Many want an ideal-cut diamond as opposed to a well-cut diamond.

TS: Is the "two months salary" guideline still used?

MR: Yes. That concept began when people realized they were buying something they intended to have the rest of their lives, so when they looked at it over a number of years, it's not really that much money. The range is broad: about $2,500 on the low end going up as high as $25,000.

TS: Will a $10,000 engagement ring appreciate in value?

MR: It's going to be worth more 30 years from now; it'll be worth more 10 years from now. Since stores have to make a profit, it probably won't be worth more in the first few years. People shouldn't look at jewelry like a mutual fund, though it's not like a car or a washing machine either -- those things lose all their value, jewelry never does.

TS: In this age of "starter marriages," is divorce something you tiptoe around when selling rings?

MR: Not really. Because we know diamond dealers and have many contacts within the jewelry industry. One of the services we offer is acting as an agent for a customer seeking to trade or sell their ring. Divorce is a reality, and we try to handle it in a confidential manner and with respect if things don't work out.

TS: Do jewelry stores have methods or business models for generating repeat business?

MR: We've invested in a system where, when people buy things, there's a history. For example, a man comes back and wants a pair of earrings to match a necklace he bought his wife two years ago, we can pull up the record, see what was purchased, and help him find a match. We only use customer data when they wish to make purchases. We don't call people on birthdays and anniversaries and encourage them to come in. Our goal is to have information for them when they need it.

TS: Does the average woman own more jewelry today than she did 20 years ago?

MR: Self-purchases by women are a major change in the past 10 years. Women, whether single or married, have more income today, they reward themselves and they enjoy a variety of jewelry, some of which is inexpensive. A necklace made of pearls and gemstones (from $250 to $800) is a very popular fashion accessory today.

TS: What technologies do you use in your custom work?

MR: The service we offer that is unique to this area is designing pieces using a program called Digital Goldsmith and a 3-D design tool called Matrix. Years ago, we gave customers a pen and ink drawing and made carvings in wax.

Today, if someone has a sapphire they've inherited and are not sure if they want to turn it into a ring or a pendant, we can sit down with them and in half an hour, create several different pieces onscreen to help them visualize what the finished piece will look like.

We can import images and use them to design pieces. The programs enable us to create the precise dimensions. We've done rings with angels on the side, monograms, patterns, logos, icons, etc. It's easy to explore options and show different looks. A problem with designing is that words get in the way. What I might mean by a description isn't always what the customer means, but when we look at a picture onscreen, we instantly know whether we're communicating.