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Oscar jewels 2007

Bling Fling: Oscar night brings out the jewels

By Washington Post found at tdn.com Feb 24, 2007

So it's open-sesame time at the vaults of the world's finest jewelers. Tim Gunn, of TV's "Project Runway" and now chief creative officer for Liz Claiborne, likens Oscar night to a coronation: "It's where you see the most over-the-top pieces in fashion and jewelry, and actually I'm disappointed if I don't."

see also Oscar dresses: Diamonds Dazzle at the 80th Annual Academy Awards 2008

Disappointment seems unlikely. The ubiquitous "who are you wearing" no longer refers to just the clothes being donned. Necklaces, earrings, even cuff links and watches now get a shout-out.

The larger jewelry houses have staffers whose sole job is to jet around the world, matching sparkling charms to the rich and famous. The shiny accessories are the last thing chosen for a celebrity's red-carpet ensemble (which itself often isn't decided until days before the big night), so the lending and swapping sometimes continues until the final bobby pin is placed and the limo door opened.

"You never really know how it's going to turn out. We've had situations where an actress had a change of mind and it simply wasn't our day and that's just the unfortunate part of the business," says Rebecca Selva, director of publicity and celebrity liaison for New York-based Fred Leighton, which has lent pieces to Nicole Kidman and Kirsten Dunst. "And other times we're surprised to find out that they ended up wearing us."

Such was the case in 2001 when Jennifer Lopez wore a gray Chanel gown with an eyepopping sheer top. Selva and her team were told at the last minute that Lopez decided to go with yellow diamonds from another jeweler. Yet as they watched the televised broadcast, they screamed with excitement: J-Lo stepped onto the carpet in their white diamond earrings.

Van Cleef & Arpels, in addition to the contemporary jewelry in its showrooms, flies in special, rarely seen heirloom pieces from its museum collection, housed at the company's Paris headquarters, to outfit famous Oscar attendees, explains Emmanuel Perrin, CEO and president of the firm's American division. In past years, Julia Roberts and Reese Witherspoon have worn the jeweler's creations.

But does all this exposure pay off in sales? Are those who can afford an $800,000 necklace really impressed that it was once wrapped around the neck of Reese, Cate or Keira?

In short, no. The exception is Fred Leighton -- the company says it often sells the pieces not long after their red-carpet debut. Last year, the firm strung a 19th-century diamond fringe necklace across the decolletage of Best Supporting Actress nominee Michelle Williams' sunshine-yellow Vera Wang gown and sold it "soon after" the show. Then the company began fielding requests for similar pieces.

For smaller jewelers, the exposure can really pay off. But that doesn't make them any less celeb-selective. "While some of the tabloid-fodder girls may make for good press, we're not really interested in lending to them," Carlile says.

Then there's the security. The jewelers dispatch guards in black tie to trail along with each bejeweled celebrity. But do the guards get to hit the after-parties? What time do Angelina, Nicole and Meryl have to hand back the goods?

While most of the houses clammed up at the mention of security, Carlile just laughed. "There's enough guys wearing those little earpieces to make sure everyone is safe."

Copyright 2007 Associated Press.

Sparks fly over sparkles

Bejeweling big names a costly operation

While it would seem that with the endless list of presenters, partygoers and, of course, nominees, there's enough decolletage for everyone's gems, the behind-the-scenes sniping between rival bling brokers about secret financial deals with actresses and their stylists would indicate otherwise.

"Everybody pays for people," says Carol Brodie, former global director of communications for Harry Winston. "And if you don't pay, you pay."

Even when there's no financial contract, there is a "thank you" piece of jewelry. During her tenure at Winston, Brodie says there were "several occasions" when "tokens of appreciation" were given to Oscar attendees. However, she says, "It was never indicated or promised upfront, which makes a huge difference."

Industry experts estimate snagging a big name as a jewelry model on Oscar night can cost anywhere from $25,000 to $200,000.

Longtime players in the field Fred Leighton, Martin Katz and Neil Lane all deny they've paid actresses to wear their gems. When Bulgari stepped up its efforts and scored a hit last year with Keira Knightley -- who accessorized her Vera Wang gown with a vintage emerald, ruby and diamond necklace from the house -- reports circulated that the company pays stylists and makes a donation to the star's charity in exchange for red-carpet exposure.

Chopard has drawn the most ire (or is it envy?) from competitors over the past several seasons for allegedly paying some of the most sought-after actresses to wear its jewelry on the red carpet. It was reported that both Hilary Swank and Charlize Theron traded in their borrowed Winston gems for the 2005 Golden Globes at the last minute for a more lucrative six-figure arrangement with Chopard. This year, there have been whispers that a best actress Oscar nominee will enter into a similar deal with the company. Not surprisingly, reps for the company deny all.

Still, some intrepid companies are entering the Oscar race determined to get play without pay.

Piaget took a suite in Beverly Hills last year hoping to snag stars, but came up empty-handed. Undaunted, president Larry Boland says he'll try again this year. "When you don't pay, it makes it hard. It's gotten out of control. We don't want to get lumped into that. We want to work with people who want to wear the jewelry because they like it."

Good luck, says industry vet Brodie. "There was a year when we dressed four out of the five best actress nominees. That won't ever happen again unless someone decides to sponsor those women. The genie is out of the bottle for good."

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Oscar dresses: Diamonds Dazzle at the 80th Annual Academy Awards 2008

Diamonds and the 80th Oscars 

I was busy writing last Tuesday’s column when the 80th Oscars dresses went on the air. I heard snatches of the ceremony but completely missed the Red Carpet prelude. I went to the Oscar Web site yesterday and took a glimpse. Below are some descriptions: ... read Diamonds and the 80th Oscars