A
99-carat center stone is surrounded by another 50 carats of garnets in
shades ranging from deep red to bright orange, all set in 22-karat yellow
gold.
Bartsch says one goal of the exhibit is to transcend the popular
perception of gems as only diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds, and
include rarer stones such as morganite, tsavorite, amethyst, garnet and
aquamarine.
"In reality diamonds are fairly common," Bartsch says.
"Truly rare and important gemstones are far more elusive."
Another goal is to rival the collections of the Crown Jewels of England
and the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., home of the Hope
Diamond.
Joan Rivers borrowed Moreira's Tahitian pearl necklace to wear at the
Emmy Awards before it was installed in its glass case at the museum.
"For a jeweler my age, especially, this is beyond a dream,"
Moreira, 36, says. "It is quite a treat for any jeweler to put his
hands on these gems. They are out of the ordinary and an inspiration in
themselves."
Smith says Moreira, owner of Ernesto Moreira Couture Jewelry, often
starts with a quick sketch on a napkin or the back of an envelope.
That's just the beginning.
Moreira says he then lives with each stone for a few weeks as he begins
to envision the ideal setting. "Then the right thing comes out,"
he says.
Most stones are designed with individual hinges within the setting. The
jeweler uses this technique to create real movement in his pieces as well as
the perceived movement inherent in his circular, feminine designs.
"They are inspired by women and made for women," Moreira says.
Each piece is finished in the back, to be beautiful from all angles.
Filigree settings sometimes can be seen through the stone, creating a
stained-glass effect.
The vault would be pitch black if not for the illumination on each piece.
As a result, it looks like the sparkling gems are lighting up the room.
Sue Smith, an interior designer who worked with Moreira, says that among
her favorite pieces in the collection is a necklace with more than 150
carats of garnets and more than 3 carats of Russian-cut diamonds set in
22-carat yellow gold. The garnets graduate in color from red to orange to
yellow around the 99-carat center stone.
Although garnet is often referred to as a semiprecious stone, there is
nothing semi about this precious work of art.
"His work is extraordinary," Sue Smith says.
Eileen Mcclelland
Museum of Natural Science head is a rock-star dreamer
By EILEEN MCCLELLAND Copyright
2006 Houston
Chronicle Nov. 16, 2006, 4:10PM
Joel Bartsch owes his career to fool's gold.
The mineral, pyrite, is known for its gleaming crystals that usually appear
as cubes. Their metallic luster can be as bright as the glint of a mirror.
"When I was 9 years old, someone showed me a pyrite crystal,"
Bartsch said. "Knowing that this object was found in nature literally
changed my view of the world."
By the time he was 10, Bartsch was so enamored of earth sciences, he had
decided he wanted to be president of the Houston Museum of Natural Science. His
brother scoffed, "You think someone's going to pay you to collect
rocks?"
As it happened, someone did. In 1991 Bartsch became curator of the HMNS
Cullen Hall of Gems and Minerals. In 2004, he was named museum president.
Lester Smith, museum benefactor and board member, said his early infatuation
with rocks paralleled Bartsch's. "I was like most kids drawn to rocks
because of their size, color and texture," Smith said. "As an adult, I
continue to marvel at the pure beauty found in nature."
Smith and Bartsch met at a rock and mineral show in Houston more than a
decade ago.
"He helped me start my first real major collection and eventually asked
if I was interested in being a trustee of the museum," Smith said.
Smith joined the board and became chairman of the gem and mineral committee.
The vault is meant to be a beacon to future Joel Bartsches, Smith said.
"As a parent and grandparent, I see it as a tool to create the next
generation of rock collectors and scientists," Smith said.
natural science Houston Diamonds
news
The tiara, designed and created by Houston jeweler Ernesto
Moreira,
contains a 42.4-carat center stone and pavι diamonds set in
platinum.
The
centerpiece of this platinum brooch is a 168-carat yellow sapphire set off
by green and pavι diamonds
