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The Jewelry Exchange Acquires the Sirocco Diamond
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Tucked away on a Tustin cul-de-sac overlooking the 55 Freeway is the mother
store and corporate headquarters of a fast-growing national retail chain, a
major player you’ve probably heard about and yet, if all goes well, you may
visit the store only once in your life.
It’s the Jewelry Exchange, the place to go, from New York to San Francisco, if
you want a quality engagement ring at a substantial discount and want to
watch it being made right before your eyes.
The Jewelry Exchange store is actually a cool place to visit, even for guys who
would rather poke out their own eyes than look at jewelry: The factory surrounds
the showroom, separated from customers by only glass.
You can watch, up close, as dozens of skilled craftsmen sort thousands of
diamonds, colored gemstones and pearls, cut wax molds, cast molten gold into
rings and assemble the finished product. It’s like watching a living museum,
while all about the store, couples select diamonds and settings from a vast
assortment of sizes and styles. If they want something more exotic, there are
plenty of emeralds, rubies and sapphires to choose from, and everything is
handmade on the premises.
Which is a long way from the store’s modest beginning.
The Jewelry Exchange, or Goldenwest Diamond Corporation, is more than just a
store it’s the largest, “first generation” privately held jewelry
company in the United States. Trade publication National Jeweler estimates the
company’s 2003 sales at $130 million, with 15 stores and a growing presence on
the internet.
Guitars, tools and jewels
Oddly, the Jewelry Exchange didn’t start out as a jewelry store.
“After high school, I went to work in my stepfather’s pawn shop,” says
Jewelry Exchange founder Bill Doddridge, 49, of Tustin. “I saved money, and in
1977, I bought my own pawn shop Buena Park Loan & Jewelry.”
Doddridge found that it was harder to obtain merchandise than to sell it. “You
never know what people are going to pawn. To get your volume up, you find other
sources of supply. I had to go out and buy guitars and tools, things people
expect to find in a pawn shop. But I found that the most profitable items were
jewelry and that I could make it for less than I paid for used items.”
In ’86, Doddridge installed a goldsmiths’ area and phased out the pawn shop.
He stressed a lean, high-volume operation to provide high quality at low prices.
He regularly travels to the diamond bourse in the Israeli town of Ramat Gan,
where he buys stones from sightholders, dealers licensed to purchase directly
from the Central Selling Organization in London, the guys who control the sale
of South Africa’s diamond production and set the world’s diamond prices.
This direct connection to sightholders placed the Jewelry Exchange only one
layer down the supply chain from the Central Selling Organization, allowing
Doddridge to pass big savings on to customers while maintaining quality.
“We prefer to show stones loose, before they’re set,” Doddridge says,
“Customers should choose diamonds the way a professional does from all
sides and angles.”
Salespeople are instructed to inspect each diamond through a loupe the
jeweler’s two-inch-long magnifier before showing it to a customer.
Customers are then asked to look through the loupe to judge for themselves. They
are told what to look for, and everything is pointed out, even the flaws.
The stress on quality and value paid off: “I discovered that so many customers
received appraisals of up to four times what they paid that I decided to
guarantee that my jewelry will appraise for twice the price.”
Business at the Jewelry Exchange was brisk, but expansion was risky, and
Doddridge faced a marketing dilemma: Where to open another store?
One store per market
Doddridge noted that his customers already came from throughout Los Angeles and
Orange counties, attracted by discounts advertised on TV spots. This was
especially true for his bread and butter business: one-carat engagement rings.
Stones and settings for engagement and wedding rings represents 55% of the
company’s volume.
He concluded that people are willing to travel much further for a high-priced,
but once-in-a-lifetime purchase than for a hamburger, a suit, or even a car. The
result was a unique business doctrine: He could keep overhead to a bare minimum
by opening only one store per DMA (designated market area).
“When people ask me when we are going to open a Los Angeles store, I tell them
that we already have one,” Doddridge says. “It just happens to be located in
Tustin.”
In 1991, Doddridge opened his first branch operations in San Diego and San
Francisco. Both stores followed the same business model quality, low price
and custom, on-site manufacturing.
The largest diamond chain, Zales, plans to open 25 new stores in the New York
region alone, but Doddridge is happy with the one large store that he already
has. He would much rather open a store in Tokyo. “There are 30 million people
in the New York DMA why should I open two stores in one area so that they can
compete with one another?”
Today, Doddridge has 15 brick-and-mortar stores and an internet shop, “with
online sales up 500% over the past year.”
“It all seems awfully simple to me,” Doddridge says. “I do the simplest,
most logical thing I follow the course of highest profitability and
efficiency in the product line. Whatever is most profitable and easier to
accomplish.”
The formula seems to be working: Doddridge expects overall sales growth of 22%
this year, which is enough for a family-oriented guy who likes to go home to his
wife and kids when the business day is over. “I never work past 6 p.m. closing
time,” he says. OCM
Stan Brin is a longtime Orange County journalist.
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The Gemological Institute of America, headquartered in Carlsbad, between
Orange County and San Diego, is the world’s foremost authority in the study
and grading of gemstones. The organization has created a list of standards for
grading diamonds the Four C’s that are now universally followed in the
gem industry:
Carat The measure of a stone’s weight. Larger
stones are rarer than smaller ones and are priced accordingly. Engagement rings
frequently weigh one carat.
Clarity Stones range from I (included), SI
(slightly included), VSI (very slightly included) to F (flawless), with
sub-grades, such as SI-1. Most quality engagement rings are SI-1 or SI-2.
Colored gemstones such as emeralds or rubies can have more flaws than diamonds.
Color The D-Z Color Grading Scale. The
brightest diamonds are D, but H is acceptable. Grades I through Z are
incrementally more yellow and less desirable.
Cut Not the style of the stone, but the quality
of its proportions, symmetry and finish, and the amount of light that it
reflects.
A one carat diamond that is finely cut and rates SI-1 for clarity and G for
color will be worth a lot more than another stone that is rated I for both
clarity and color.
For more information, visit the GIA website at www.gia.edu
and click on “How to Buy a Diamond” and “learn the Four C’s” of
diamond value. OCM
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Lothar Vallot, 53, of Huntington Beach, is the owner of Otten, Vallot and
Company, a full-service jeweler in Huntington Beach.
He’s also the head of the gemology program at Santiago Canyon College in
Orange one of the few community college programs in precious gemstones
where he has taught for 26 years.
Like Doddridge, Vallot insists that his customers closely examine each stone
under magnification before purchasing it, although he prefers to use a
microscope rather than the traditional loupe.
“I advise my customers to buy stones of H or better color (“GIA
Standards”) weighing at least one carat,” Vallot says. “If you can afford
it. The clarity should be SI-2 or better and without visible flaws.”
“The round shape is traditional, but the most expensive because it’s the
most brilliant, the most sparkly, and has the broadest appeal.” Vallot likes
the term sparkly, which encapsulates the results of clarity, color and cut.
But sparkly also leads to a fifth measure of a diamond’s value, I for
intangible.
“You can put two diamonds side by side, both will weigh the same and be graded
the same, yet one will stand out from the other. Which is why I always recommend
to my customers that they compare stones and only buy the ones they like.”
Vallot does not recommend using the internet to purchase high-value stones.
“The only thing you will have to go by is the stone’s GIA certification
that won’t tell you how much you will enjoy it.” OCM
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