Engagement, Inc.:
The
marketing of diamonds
inspired by Stay Free article By Robin Edgerton found at ibiblio.org
The marketing of diamonds started in the late 1800s, when the Oppenheimer family established a diamond monopoly with its well-known company, De Beers.
The Victorian culture wanted to associate abstract concepts to material objects.
Kate Greenaway’s wildly popular The Language of Flowers(1885) ascribed a meaning to each specie and variety of flower.
A
yellow rose meant platonic love, for instance. Such assignations applied to
stones as well, which sometimes increased a substance’s value. The idea that
diamonds represented "perfect love" evolved during the Victorian era
but was reinforced with a vengeance by the market manipulation of De Beers.
Language
of Flowers
Author: Kate Greenaway; Buy New: $5.95
In the 1930s, De Beers set out to establish social status for large diamonds through giving a number of starlets hefty stones, arranging for glamorous photo shoots, and script-doctoring Hollywood movies to include scenes of jewelry shopping. The tradition began to be manipulated more closely in one particular aspect–the act of giving. Those starlets told tales of being surprised by their large stones. Movie scenes featured a hero giving his gal a big rock and watching her eyes grow wide with joy. The diamond began to be injected into relationships between men and women as a reproducible act–a script for life, not just film–and an inseparable part of courtship and marriage. In 1947, De Beers’ ad agency came up with the massively successful slogan "A diamond is forever," which implied that diamonds don’t crack, break, or lose value. (They do.) The slogan became so entrenched that the only proper way to "dispose" of diamonds was to hand them down to a female descendant.
Other techniques De Beers used are familiar today; they sent representatives to high school home classes to teach girls about the value of diamonds and feed them romantic dreams. The diamond went from being a status symbol to an emotional one–love measured in carats.
Ten-year anniversary rings were created and heavily advertised in the 1960s after De Beers was forced to purchase large stocks of Russian diamonds. Most of these diamonds were small, white gems of less than one-quarter carat. As De Beers had been pushing engagement rings with larger (and mostly South African) stones, they had to adjust their campaigns. Hence the eternity ring–equally expensive but with smaller stones–was marketed specifically for anniversaries.
In 1967, De Beers hired advertising agency J. Walter Thompson to popularize the diamond engagement ring in Brazil, Germany, and Japan. They still work with them today (see valentine diamonds )
De Beers found limited success in the former two countries, but Japan far exceeded expectations.
By 1978, half of all Japanese brides received a diamond engagement ring. And by 1981, the number had grown to 60 percent; the "tradition" had taken hold.
Just how did the J. Walter Thompson agency accomplish this?
A basic but general ad campaign similar to that in the U.S.–
Up to today the diamond ring is pitched not as a product but as a symbol.
Founded in 1888 by Cecil Rhodes, De Beers has three operating principles: control supply, raise prices, and sell the romance of rarity.
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De Beers hires N.W. Ayer and Co. to make diamonds “a psychological necessity…the larger and finer the diamond, the greater the expression of love.” Within three years, 80% of engagements are consecrated with a diamond ring. |
After a sociologist advises diamonds be presented as a symbol of a man’s ability to “get into the competitive race,” N.W. Ayer begins loaning gems to actresses, “who can make the grocer’s wife say, ‘I wish I had what she has.’” |
Department of Justice charges De Beers with “conspiring to restrict production, monopolize sales and arbitrarily influence prices” by cornering 95% of world market. De Beers executives fail to show up in court, pull company out of U.S. market, opting to use middlemen. |
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“A Diamond Is Forever” slogan debuts. Jewelers instructed to tell men—who buy 90% of all diamonds—to spend at least two months’ salary on ring. The not-so-subtle message: Can you afford not to? |
De Beers gains control of huge Soviet cache of small stones and begins emphasizing “color, cut, and clarity.” |
Thanks to 14-year campaign to glamorize Western wedding customs, 60% of Japanese wives sport diamond rings; their husbands spend more on them than American counterparts. |
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DOJ again charges De Beers with price-fixing. Executives again skip court and can’t visit the U.S. for fear of arrest. |
Advertising Age declares “A Diamond is Forever” the most effective slogan of 20th century, recognized by 90% of Americans. |
“Three-stone anniversary ring” campaign is an instant success. |
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“Diamonds that make a statement”—i.e., they’re bigger— campaign aimed at affluent married couples. Uses slogans like: “Thank you, Bob… Thank you, Lord.” |
De Beers markets “right-hand ring” to “stylish” and “independent” single women. Uses slogan, “Your left hand says ‘we,’ your right hand says ‘me.’” |
De Beers pays $10 million antitrust penalty, clearing way to open stores in the U.S. It now controls 60% of world market. |
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related articles :
Paris Fashion: The jewelers of Place Vendôme get in on the act
Anjolee
The Art of Jewelry™
Diamond bracelets, rings, necklaces, pendants, earrings.
We are the manufacturer –You buy from the source!
Rapaport
to diamond industry: Just say no to credit memo.
In an impassioned "State of the Diamond Industry" address, Rapaport
Group Chairman Martin Rapaport said the jewelry industry cannot sell to people
on credit anymore and also criticized members of the trade for not trading
diamonds to keep prices from dropping.
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Articles in
this section:
Really Super Jewelry, Super Prices. Shop today
Really Super Jewelry and Gemstones:
tips, books and more: Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide the best book I know to learn how to recognize a good diamond.
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