cheap lab created diamonds

Feb. 12, 2007 issue -  But it's so much more complicated than that. Especially now, with online discounters, synthetic gemstones and worries about "blood" diamonds clouding the market. Here's what you need to know if you're shopping for some nice ice.

Is it clean? Only 1 percent of commercially sold diamonds are what would be considered "conflict" or blood diamonds. You can avoid them by making sure the diamond you buy has been certified by the Kimberly Process (diamondfacts.org), an industry practice that now tracks every stone to ensure it wasn't mined or smuggled to fund torture or terrorism. Corinna Gilfillan of Global Witness suggests shoppers also ask the jeweler for a copy of its policy on conflict diamonds, and check globalwitness.org in about one week, when she'll post a survey of the top jewelers and their conflict-diamond policies.

Is it clear? It's harder to find a great diamond than it used to be, says Fred Cuellar, author of "How To Buy A Diamond " ($12.03 Amazon). The biggest, best stones were mined long ago, and now lesser ones are making it to market. If you're looking for a half carat or larger, make sure your jeweler offers you a grading report from the Gemological Institute of America or one of three other diamond-grading labs: the American Gem Society, the European Gemological Laboratory and the International Gemological Laboratory. But first learn your four C's (cut, clarity, color and carat weight), so you can understand the report card (gia.edu). Cut is the most important, because a bad cut can leave poor-quality material in your diamond, artificially lifting its weight and what you pay for it. Ask for "universal crowns and pavilions." If you must have a size that's bigger than your budget, compromise on color or clarity—even the lower color grades E, F, G and H will look colorless to you.

Was it mined? Scientists are now selling lab-built diamonds that are so genuine, the GIA is grading them—and so good-looking, many jewelers can't tell them from mined stones. "They are actually more perfect than natural diamonds, because they are built molecule by molecule," says Kenneth Gassman, the country's leading industry analyst. Two companies, Chatham (chatham.com) and Gemesis (gemesis .com), specialize in the colored diamonds that have been trendy since Ben Affleck was engaged to Jennifer Lopez. Apollo Diamond (apollodiamond.com) specializes in colorless diamonds that are smaller than a half carat, though larger ones will be available later this year. The synthetic diamonds (if you sell them, you call them "cultured") sell for anywhere between 15 and 60 percent less than natural mined diamonds.

Where is it sold? Web jewelers like Union Diamond (uniondiamond.com) and Blue Nile (bluenile.com) have built big followings fast by making it safe, easy and cheap to shop online for diamonds. They sell certified, graded diamonds for about 80 percent of what you'd pay for a comparable stone at a jewelry store, according to price-list publisher Martin Rapaport. Some customers try to get the best combination of price and local service by buying the stone online and then taking it to a local jeweler to be appraised and set.

Wherever you buy, make sure the diamond is returnable for a full refund. That allows you to get an independent appraisal. And it gives you time to see if it really sings to your honey.

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